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A detailed look at Morúa corsets for the most discerning corset wearer
Construction Morúa corsets are sturdy without being bulky. They are constructed from one to four layers of fabric, depending on the design. I try to keep them as light as possible while still maintaining the structure and strength need for this specialty garment.
Reinforced seams, boning channels and shaping by means of hand basting and steaming are typical techniques that I use on my corsets. These details may be invisible to the wearer, but they are part of what makes each garment unique. Morúa corsets are very durable and suitable for tight-lacing and daily wear. Fit Fit and comfort are the most important thing in a corset. The patterns I draft for each individual l have been developed over years of research and testing. I offer a range of shapes and boning options. Combined with careful measuring and a mock up to test fit the result is a corset that is right for you.
Boning Morúa corsets are boned using a combination of spiral steel and spring steel boning. I prefer to use flexible spiral on most seams and channels but place the stiffer spring steel boning where more support is necessary. I am happy to use all spring steel boning upon request at no additional cost. How much boning is used on a particular corset depends on the style and purpose of the corset. I have found that 22–28 bones is optimal for most corsets. This results in comfortable, wearable corset that is still sculptural and supportive. Boning is only part of what makes a corset solid and strong; material, shaping and placement are just as important. Some people prefer the restrictive support that comes with a heavily boned corset and I can add additional boning upon request.
Eyelets Morúa corsets have a larger number of small two part eyelets placed only ¾” apart to evenly distribute the pressure along the center back. They are spaced even more closely at 1/2″ around the waist as that is the part of the corset that takes the most pressure.
Busk Steel busk closures are used at the center front and are reinforced with stiff steel boning. Quality German busks are always used. These are designed to have the two bottom hook and eyes spaced a little more closely around the waist, where the closure take the most stress. In addition under busk modesty panel is standard on all corsets. This is is that skin isn’t pinched or revealed at the front when wearing the corset. Waist Tape Every corset has a cotton twill stay tape stabilize the waist prevent stretching.
Finishing The finishing on Morúa corsets is meticulous. The inside is as beautiful as the outside and special care goes into symmetry and matching.
Materials The strength layer in Morúa corsets is always cotton coutil. This provides a strong durable base on which to build a corset. Outer fabrics available include specialty coutil, cotton sateen, matt duchess satin and silk dupioni. I have a range of fabrics such as pinstripe wool, brocades and fairytale motifs in stock and I am happy to source something special for your corset. Morúa corsets are lined in soft cotton, or on occasion with coutil. Features such as modesty panel, garters and embroidery can be added for an additional charge. Decorations and trims such a vintage beading and antique lace appliqué are also available.
About MorúaPerfectly fitted corsets, unique gowns, elegant hats and beautiful tailoring from couture designer Gerry Quinton.